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A Tale of Backpackers in Beijing

Part Eight

                                  

          My headband completely disappeared, replaced with hope and possibility, and we then had lengthy, pleasant conversation about our personal lives. I learned that he had just completed a 2-year stint with the Peace Corps, and was going to visit some friends in Ulaan Baatar. Following that, he was going to London via Moscow on the train, ultimately to a  science position at a high school in Madison, Wisconsin, .

         I reciprocated his commentary with my own; I, too, was an educator on a similar train trip across Russia, but exiting through St. Petersburg to Helsinki and Scandinavia with my children. He was most encouraging; “It is outstanding that you are taking your children on such a mammoth trip, and I hope they have a better future because of your greathearted effort.” I glowed with his compliment, and we both retired to our rooms, mutually satisfied with conversation. I joined Katarena and Enrique in desperately needed slumber.

That was true for Katarena and Enrique, but not me. I was still in turmoil concerning our being able to leave Beijing, and slept uneasily. I rose early, but this time with a definite plan. Todoso had given me the information I needed, and I rolled off my bunk, quickly showered, and dressed. I bounded downstairs and outside for what I felt was the most important transaction in Beijing—possibly of our entire trip—the great hope of purchasing departure tickets.

I went straightaway to the Pacific Center Shopping complex next door, which had several ATMs. Amazingly, I had remembered Todd telling me, “However, they don't take cards, only cash.” Even more amazing, I remembered the PIN number. But perhaps most amazing, was that I was able to get a staggering 6,000 ¥ ($726USD)! In a trot, I beelined West on the South side of Stadium Workers Road, passing familiar landmarks, and seeing one I'd missed before: a sculpture of our Earth.

I knew it was our globe; having seen similar models before, a disfigured one on display in Battery Park, Manhattan, New York City and on our tour of the Vatican Museum a few weeks ago. I stopped briefly to observe it, a hemisphere of  pseudo-water, the other hemisphere solid, rotating on a liquid-filled base. I memorized the location and pushed on,  passing by a previously unseen garden, before I arrived at the now familiar Dongsishitiao Qiao Station.

I went through the ritual of paying 3¥ ($0.36USD), receiving a receipt, showing it to the guard, and descending to the platform. Few other passengers were about due to the earliness of the day, I became alarmed that, while it was Monday, maybe it was a special day (like the EU election day in Athens!) and all my striving was for naught?       

I followed Todd's directions, changing trains at the JiangGuoMen transfer station, and going one stop East, to Yong An Li. Nearly racing out of the sparsely packed station, I looked skyward toward the buildings on the other side of Ring Road Two. I saw the bright red letters of CANON and knew I was close. It was too early for much motor traffic, but I  couldn't stand still when I saw a green net bag in the bike lane. I rushed past it, across the frontage road, onto the sidewalk going under the overpass, and toward the Canon building. Initially, I couldn't get in; barricades and motor cars tightly parked around it prevented my entry. As I walked around the lot, I saw a small gap, intentionally left by the workers for their own entry, and I furtively snuck through.

 At the door, I caught my breath when I saw three armed guards—had they seen me? Am I going to be so close to a potential way out that I'm going to locked up? I played it cool, walking right up to the door as if I owned the place, and, to my great disbelief, he opened the door for me, with a smile. Then I realized that he was probably extending the graciousness to a woman who had quietly followed me.

 It made no difference, I was in. I went to the first clerk, who pointed me to another clerk, who pointed me to a third clerk in charge of the international trains. The woman who had followed me was already there, putting lots of money on the counter. I sidled up alongside her, and began talking with her in a casual, but mostly in awe of her-adroitness-at-using-me-for-an-escort, manner. 

Her name was Stephanie, from Nice, France, and she was on her way to visit friends in Ulaan Baatar. “So you were in Nice thirty years ago. I don't think we would have metyou are much older than me. But I do thank you for getting me in here. I wanted those guards to think that we were together so they wouldn't question me.”

“Since you are going to UB, which is where I want to go, why don't we go together? After all, the guards think we are together. What's more, you come with both our offspring, too!” I told  her with a conspiratorial smile.

“Obviously, we've done quite well as a couple so far, but now it is time for a divorce. Besides, my hosts in UB are close friends and they would take great offense at not being invited to my marriage!” as she bought a single one-way ticket, for departure tomorrow morning. “Please play along with me”, she whispered, then slapped my bearded facehard! My quickiewife indignantly stormed past the bewildered guards, who quickly opened the door for her. I stood there, mouth agape, rubbing the handprint on my cheek, in much greater awe of her.

The last time I had been struck by a woman was a deserved slap by a barfly in Rota, Spain in 1975 or 6.  That woman's hit not only sent my black nylon military-issued glasses across several tables, but knocked me out of my chair, onto the floor where I laid for a few minutes recovering. My shipmates were in an uproar, laughing, taunting me to get up and defend myself while simultaneously encouraging the waitress to sock me again, put me down for the count. I did get up, retrieved my glasses, and humbly sat down, apologizing to her for my rudeness. She accepted it, but warned me to never, ever, treat a woman as I had her. It was a good lesson, and I still remember it well to this dayundoubtedly for the rest of my life.

I had become the center of attention with Stephanie's display of self-assuredness.  Truly, I was a schmuck, and when I turned my attention to the clerk, she frostily told me that my wife had gotten the last seat out, and the next train didn't go North for three more days. She informed me that there was a hard sleeper cabin available on it, but could not guarantee if our fourth companion was a non-smoker, though certainly a male.

                     

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