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I felt as though I was talking to students who had
just turned eighteen, much the same as colleague Tonia has told me
about students who become new adults in her Government and Economics
class; “Oh, they get this glassy-eyed stare when they turn eighteen
and realize how much their one vote counts. Then they forget to
register.”
We had a remarkable three-hour sojourn through the
political heart of China, both a physical center and the emotional
landscape of two Chinese who live in that ever-changing environment
of an authoritarian state with a vibrant free-market economy. They
escorted us into an even older section of Beijing, on the Southern
edge of the Square of Heavenly Peace. I became a bit alarmed as it
was a narrow, densely packed hutong, Qianmen Dajie, but relaxed when
we came to a cyber cafe. I paid the cashier three 100-yuan
($36.33USD) notes for us to check our email, then gave our guides a
100¥ ($12.11USD) note for their time, effort, and revealing
themselves in a manner that undoubtedly spoke for most younger
Chinese. They thanked me and skedaddled, leaving me somewhat ashamed
of myself, so casually paying them such a slim amount for what had
turned out to be a n intensely interesting and educational tour of
the showpiece of China.
Most significant today was that the three of us had
essentially covered the Imperial City of China. It's boundaries were
largely unchanged from declaration of its titular designation in
1280, when the Mongol horde under Kublai Kahn swept into power under
the name “Yuan” dynasty, until to 1949, when Chairman Mao arrived
and stated the country was now the People's Republic of China, a
communist stronghold. He ensured that he left as strong an
impression as any of the previous rulers. He had the huge barrier
walls destroyed, to be replaced with current Ring Road Two, and
broadened Chang'an Jie, as well as enlarging Tian'anmen Square to
accommodate (his) Communist ideology of “big=
impressive=intimidating = awe-and-fear inspiring”, and his
personal mausoleum and hall.
In 1402, Ming Emperor Zhu Di firmly established the
Imperial City boundaries when he formally moved the capital from the
South (Nanjing) to the North (Beijing). It was all laid out in
strict accordance with Feng Shui philosophy of the 1400s, along the
South-North/East-West lines
Then I became alarmed again when Katarena expressed a
need to use the loo, and disappeared behind a closed door at the
back. I stood at the door, ear pressed up against it in a vain
attempt to hear sounds suggestive of a bathroom, but the 200-plus
noisy computers defeated my eavesdropping plan. I was anxious for a
few minutes, until the door opened and out came a woman, but no
Katarena. I became extremely anxious when she only smiled at
me—there was no mistaking I was an Anglo father waiting for his
Anglo daughter—and told me that my daughter would be out shortly,
then closed the door again. With my heart racing, I waited. It
seemed to be forever, but Katarena did emerge, unscathed and in one
piece. I kept her close and escorted her past rows of people busily
typing away to Enrique, and two open terminals beside him. We became
oblivious to crowded hall, taken into the ethereal cañons of
cyberspace and welcoming the messages of Elena.
It was twilight as we went back through a darkened
square to the subway, bought some small snacks, paid our 9¥
($1.09USD), and entered the efficient train. After changing to the
#2 line at the Jian Guo Men transfer station, we were soon leaving
the Dongsishitiao Qiao Station, walking West on
Giongrentiyuchang Bei
(Worker's Stadium Road). As we passed the Worker's Stadium, I saw
the Worker's Parking lot not full of cars, but of people.
Interestingly, they were divided into two distinct groups, all
dancing.
One group was practicing
swing dance to prerecorded music, while the other group was involved
in an equally energetic disco dance, also with prerecorded music.
Despite such a disparity in the sounds, it seemed like a
near-perfect harmonic convergence of well-choreographed bodies
twirling, sliding, sweeping, and touching. We moved on, passing the
Outback Restaurant, its own small parking lot full of cars, before
finally coming to our own familiar hostel and a good night's
rest—for Katarena and Enrique.
I had calmed down as I started considering options: For
now, Katarina and Enrique were safe and secure in this hostel, I had
access to money , and our passports were current, complete with
valid visas. The only challenge was figuring out how to leave this
city and country that I had worked so hard to get us in. As I
concentrated, a tight band seemed to wrap around my head, just above
my eyebrows. I knew a solution existed, and it might involve air
travel instead of by train. The downside to that is, while we might
have more time within cities, such travel would quickly deplete the
funds I had allocated for our journey, as well as missing out on my
primary objective of a trans-Asia train crossing.
My next plan of attack was the obvious: Speak with my
fellow hostelers for clues. In doing so, I learned of a hostelmate,
Todd, who had obtained train tickets on very short notice. I felt
the band around my head loosen ever-so-slightly. My quest now was to
find this individual who may be able to help me devise a solution.
After certifying my identity (no better proof than a passport) and
my dilemma, I was directed to post a request on the bulletin board.
While thumbtacking my message on the board, I was fairly
shouting his name when a somewhat sleepy man came down the steps,
growling “¿Que? What do you want?”
Just as gruffly, I replied “Are you Todd?”
“That's me. Why are you bothering me? I was asleep
when I heard you yelling my name!”
I immediately bowed my head as the band greatly eased it's
constriction, and I softly replied, “Todd, I deeply apologize for
disturbing you, but I too am exhausted from a situation in which you
may be my only salvation.”
He then reflected my attitudinal change, replying in an
equally soft voice, “Oh. Very well. We can talk below. I'll meet you
in the lobby in a few minutes. Who are you?”
“Juanito Hayburg. Thank you so much, Todd. See you soon by
the highly inaccurate clocks.”
He smiled, knowing exactly what any world traveler knows
about time zones as well as pinpointing precisely where we'd meet.
Eagerly, I bounded down the stairs to a couch underneath
the disorganized time display, where he joined me in ten minutes. I
have never been so focused in my life as the words jumbled out of my
mouth, “How quickly can I get train tickets to Russia? I understand
you got tickets really fast. Please tell me how!”
“You may have misunderstood” he began, and my headband
tightened as my anxiety level jumped. “Yes, I was able to buy train
tickets on very short notice—this is high season, you know—but I
went in the opposite direction. I had to go to Hong Kong to get my
entry visa validated just to exit to the North. It was three-days
one-way in a hard seat, which was horrible, with the smoke,
spitting, crowdedness, and constant noise, including one that is
sounds like an old Basset hound in the throes of death. It was one
of the worst trips I've ever had. I'll never do that again, but it
was cheap, all I could afford. Back to your question: I bought my
ticket at CITS (China International Travel Service, which I had
forgotten was recommended in LP, too) in the Canon Building. Been to
the railway station yet?”
“Yes,” I replied with disgust. “Growing up, I remember being told
that I acted like a Keystone Cop or was in a Chinese Fire Drill.
Surely, those pale in comparison to the railway terminal! But I
figured it out, only to be told that there were no tickets for two
months!”
He smiled, acknowledging the pervasive chaos to an
untrained (pun intended) eye, continued, “Well, only go there with
tickets already in hand. The Canon Building is one stop East
of the Jiang Guo Men transfer station, at Yong An Li. When you walk
out of the station, one of the first skyscrapers on the other side
of the Ring Road Two will have 'CANON' in bright red letters at the
top. CITS is located on the ground floor, and you may be able to get
Northbound tickets there. However, they don't take cards, only
cash.”
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