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A Tale of Backpackers in Beijing

Part Six

                      

            We ambled South, back around to Tian'anmen Gate, and into the S13 subway station. Our intention was not to go back to the hostel, but to safely pass underneath Chang'an Jie (Eternal Peace) Road. Our passage was restricted by the vendors, the universal flea marketers who were hawking their wares in a rainfree area. Just as on the sidewalk, it was likewise restricted but the desire to sell, fueled by the hope of a big payback and a new easy  life of wealth. This  is the driving force that compels millions, if not billions around the world. Going by the sellers, I thought about their competition. As we survived that gauntlet of salespeople, we encountered a different sort of sales strategy.

Two nicely dressed natives met us as we emerged from the subway. “You are not from here. Where is your home?” he asked with a smile, extending his hand.

I suspect my shorts, Hawaiian shirt, and Beatle's cap rendered my attempt to blend in useless, as I told them, with pride, “El Paso, Texas, USA!”

“So you are from America?” his voice unwavering. “Is it OK if we went with you to practice our English? It is no charge.”

I'd forgotten the LP warning that young college-age Chinese will do exactly what they were doing, and, after an indeterminate amount of time, will expect payment for services rendered.

She explained, “You see, China is a large country with many different dialects. Here in the North, we speak Mandarin that is still separate from the South or the West. Even within the city, you can hear differences as people come far away for work. One language most of us use is English, which is good because we will be hosting the Olympics in 2008.”

As we walked around Tian'anmen Square (“Square of Heavenly Peace”), we conversed extensively, beginning with introductions: his name was “John”, her name was “Sue”. (Undoubtedly, Anglicized for our benefit.) Walking past the massive Five Star Red Flag flying from a guarded pole, they showed us Tian'anmen Tower, the Monument to the People's Heroes (Renim Yinxiong Jinian Bei), the Great Hall of the People (where the National People's Congress meets), the Chinese National Museum(both the Revolutionary and the History Museums are here-two museums in one),  and the Mao Zedong Memorial Hall and Mausoleum, some of which charge for entrance.

Tian'anmen Square is a 440,000 square meter (about 3½ times the size of the National Mall in Washington DC) assemblage point is reputed to be the single largest in the world. More interesting to me was the specific site where the as of yet unknown, lone Chinaman who had stopped a tank during the democracy protest of 1989. Our guides could not tell us his name, nor could they tell what had happened to him. He might have been tortured and killed, imprisoned for “re-education”, spirited out of the country to a distant safe haven, or simply disappeared among the billions of other Chinese. Regardless, his presence is still there, voicing a desire for self-expression and freedom.

Paralleling his voice, I told Sue and John about the National Mall, “...a focal point of assemblages like Tian'anmen Square, where frequent demonstrations are held by the people to express opinions about national policies. Over time, there have been similar occurrences of arrests, death, and thuggish behavior, all committed by the our government against people wanting a change in national policy. The citizenry have wants that are universal.” and we were all silent for a moment, reflecting.

 I mentioned that this was part of the reason we were visiting China, to learn that, as human beings, we all possess yearnings which cannot be repressed. In exercising our own freedom of movement, we will become better residents of planet Earth by understanding other occupants and their situations. Sue and John were glad for us, albeit acting hang-dog for themselves.

“We are not able to go far,” she began, “it cost much money for college. And not many Chinese can afford passports.”

They were shocked when I asked them if they were able to split expenses by sharing an apartment.

“We've heard about how common that is in the West, but never here. It is just too difficult. We still live at home.”

I remarked that college in the USA is likewise costly, and, as part of my job, I almost always recommend to my students that they start their post-high school education at El Paso Community College. I gave them the same litany that I  have given to virtually all of my students at Tierra de Parque Secondario Escuela.

“El Paso Community College is the best place to start, because you can still live at home for the first two years before transferring the University of Texas at El Paso if you've taken the appropriate basics. It is cheaper to knock out your first two years at EPCC, even better than living in a dorm on campus at UTEP  because you can save four to six hundred dollars a month, which adds up to over twelve to fifteen thousand dollars. That can buy a lot of college!”

“That is so much money!” John remarked, his eyes wide. “But all of you have that chance. So many of our friends had no choice but to accept work given to them. They had no choice, you always get to choose. That is better than money. You can pick your leaders, your future, anything you want.” John said with a hint of palpable suffering.

I understood his tacit dissatisfaction, and agreed with him that it certainly seems that way, “...but our opportunity to make choices through voting is virtually the same as yours. The vast majority of the possible electorate in the USA simply do not bother to register for the civic responsibility of choosing our leaders and laws. We have an oligarchy, and we probably see it strongest in El Paso because the few who do make an effort inevitably simply choose  'wrong' (usually a Democratic slate, to whom the elected Republican leader funnels away money, influence, and pork barrel). You see, the USA leadership is supposed to be decided by one person, one vote, and that the government was of the people, by the people, and for the people. That has changed over time since so few people bother to participate in the most fundamental societal obligation of voting.” I could see that both he and Sue heard my words, but did not comprehend the ramification of the political process.

                     

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