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A Tale of Backpackers in Beijing

Part Sixteen

                                            

The story of this region began during the 11th Century, when numerous nation-states were fiercely battling over land. The kingdoms built protective walls that eventually became The Great Wall. By the 3rd Century B.C., a 13-year old youngster (Katarena's age!) became leader of the Chinese state of Qin, and took the name of Shi Huang, meaning “First Emperor”. He was essentially a bloodthirsty tyrant, who commenced upon a beneficial program of standardizing language, measurements, and unifying much of China under a centralized government for the first time. He also conscripted some 700,000 laborers and artisans over the next four decades to begin building the Terracotta Soldiers to protect him in the afterlife, just as real soldiers did then. (Apparently the Qin ruler had softened the practice of all slaves and concubines being buried alive with the head honcho when he died to using models of them.) Nepotism in its most naked form was the law, and he anointed his son to carry on the nation building. Regardless of  their general improvements, the masses had had enough of the tyranny, and overthrew these dictators after less than 50 years of their oppressive rule, making way for a more benevolent Han Dynasty. The Han Dynasty was a bit better, incorporating Confucianism as a way of legitimizing their rule, which lasted about thirteen times as long and greatly extended the boundaries of China. This was a time of connecting the mini-walls, enhancing and enlarging them to become the now formidable Great Wall.

Fast forward to 1974: Shaanxi province, of which Xi'an is the capitol, was experiencing a drought. Three farmers were digging a well when they shoveled into something much harder than the surrounding soil. They had found a 2,000 year old chamber containing the hard, high-heat fired terracotta, life-sized soldiers. This discovery, which is currently 7,000 figures and growing, has brought in many leaders and heads-of-state, besides multitudes of ordinary turistas such as us, all of whom marvel at this “8th wonder of the world”. (former French President, Jacques Chirac)   

We were all tired, and wanted a nap after the meal, but we certainly could not lay down here. Katarena and Enrique practiced their bargaining skills, buying t-shirts, and I bought an excellent pair of Jade earrings for Elena. A sure sign of tiredness was that I didn't bargain, instead forking over the posted price. All of us had had enough, and decided that we ought to go back to the airport to avoid missing our (19:10) return flight to Beijing. It meant passing through the horde of sellers again, and Enrique once again was able to bargain for a miniature terracotta soldier.

Our conveyance was still there, the driver resting in the back seat. He seemed surprised to see us and pulled out a map of Xi'an. It had numerous tourist sites marked on it, to which he indicated areas he would happily take us. However, we were all tired, and didn't want to miss our flight, so I pointed to the airplane. Within an hour, he had dropped us at the airport. Once all of us were out of his vehicle, he waited patiently for me to give him the payment of five 100¥ ($60USD) notes, I peeled them off the ever-diminishing rolled of fortune that I had acquired a few days ago when I thought cash only would be accepted for our  train tickets to Russia. Mutually bowing heads in formal separation, he waited for the next customer while we turned and entered the crowded airport.

A clock showed that we had arrived us three hours in advance of the scheduled departure. We did a 180 and returned to the sedan we had just gotten out of, figuring that we would engage him for a bit more tour of the area. But he had already acquired new passengers, and we could see him speeding down the ramp. We went back inside the terminal, found an empty table and pulled up three chairs.

We had barely sat down when a waiter approached us, and, when we indicated we weren't interested in a purchase, he pointed to a sign, written only in English, that only paying customers could sit here. I looked around and saw lots of people occupying seats but not eating or drinking. Heck, several people were even sleeping, something I felt a need for. The waiter, alert to my own observation, gestured that the small  rack constituted a separation from his restaurant and the terminal, and, once again, pointed at the sign. Accepting the fact that we either had to buy or leave, we left. It wasn't that comfortable anyway.

We went downstairs and found a mini-hotel, where we could rent beds to rest upon. We knew we only had a couple hours wait, and I was too cheap to pay for what seemed outrageous price, 20 ¥ ($2.40USD) per hour. We wandered toward a darkened hallway, found the remotest corner possible in which to posit our bodies.

                     

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