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A Tale of Backpackers in Beijing

Part Fourteen

                                            

Leaving the already-warm day, we went through the routine of purchasing our fares and descending to the platform. This time, though, we were going the opposite direction on the circle line, and went through five stops to Xizhimen Station. We looked at taking #13 from the North Beijing train station, but instead followed the LP guide and sought out bus #332. There was much development along Xizhimenwai Dajie, where we were to catch the bus in front of the zoo. We could have gone to the zoo, but the entrance was not apparent. We wanted to see the Summer Palace, anyway. Seeing the desired bus, we easily ran alongside it in the heavy traffic until it found a safe place to pull over and stop.  Paying a fare of 1 ¥ ($0.12USD) apiece, we rode it to the end of the line, the turnaround in front of the Summer Palace entrance.

The entrance fee was 30 ¥ ($3.60) per person, followed by lots of walking, most of it apparently uphill. The temples, gardens, lake, bridge, all aspects of the park were so delightful and most relaxing. Besides all of the well-crafted beauty, we paid and additional 10 ¥ ($1.20USD) fee to enter the Tower of the Fragrance of Buddha. It, too, was extremely artistic and meaningful. Unfortunately, our late start and inadequate nourishment gave more meaning to shortening our visit so that we could find a restaurant for an evening meal.

Other problems were starting to surface as well. Katarena was suffering from heat exhaustion, and complained miserably about the lack of Western-style toilets. “I really hate those squat slots. I just feel horrible using them.” and she dissolved into a flood of tears. I consoled her, assuring her that we would eat soon, and that a squat slot in the restaurant would likely be better due to public heath regulations.

“Besides,” I questioned her, “how are the squat slots any different from when we've gone camping and there were no toilets available then?”

She improved some, and as we left this masterpiece blend of outdoors and indoors, she perked up and help search for a restaurant while we returned toward the metro station on bus #332. Slowly moving alongside a mixed development site, we saw a Mongolian barbecue set-up, and exited the bus as soon as possible. Walking back toward the food stall, we found a computer/electronics store that interested Enrique, but nutritional need ruled out stopping. In the restaurant, I devoured the greens because it was too spicy for them, Katarena enjoyed piles of rice, and Enrique went hungry because he wouldn't eat that either, due to something he hates—egg—were mixed into it. His intellectual food was incomplete, too, for, when we went to his favorite store after eating, only to find it was closing. Then all of us had to rush to catch our bus—the bright sky had become threateningly dark. As we boarded, it broke open, with a heavy, soaking rain which limited sight.

When we got off the bus in less rainfall, there was an ample amount of motor traffic, but also more bicycles than usual. There were primarily working cycles, usually heavily laden with wood, ducks/birds, animal products, trash, and, occasionally, other humans. One bike was so covered with industrial materials that nothing could be seen except a long chain hanging so far below as to nearly be touching the ground. Once we had gotten  to the front of it, we saw a wee man pushing the pedals. Of course, he was smoking, the fag hanging from one side of his mouth.

Retracing our steps was easy, but we made another stop on Stadium Worker's Road, this time at KFC. Enrique had been quite a trooper, but he was feeling faint and desperately needed chow. Katarena wanted additional food, too, and, heck, why not, I ate as well. With our bellies full, we contentedly returned to the hostel, where many of our fellow GWAC hikers were sitting in the dining area, watching a DVD. (It was undoubtedly recently purchased, as virtually everytime we ventured out onto the streets, independent business men constantly approached us, saying “DVD! 9-11! DVD! 9-11!”) We attempted to watch, but the few smokers had so polluted the air in that ventless room that we had to get out. Just as well; we needed to shower and clean our clothes anyway, besides giving our bodies more required recuperation,  especially since we had to be up to catch an airplane to Xi'an tomorrow morning.

We awoke early, around (05:00), and excitedly prepared for our trip to see the renowned Army of Terracotta Warriors. We took an amazingly cheap taxi to the Beijing International Airport by (06:30). Our domestic flight #1203 aboard China Eastern Airlines  was to depart at (07:30). It was the first time I'd ever seen a toll placed on all departing passengers, but we paid 50 ¥ ($6USD) apiece for the index card-sized coupon, emblazoned with the silhouette of a jet and the reason (in English): CAAC (Civil Aviation Administration of China) AIRPORT MANAGEMENT AND CONSTRUCTION FEE. This was our first restriction to overcome when flying out, then next was the x-ray and passport check/ inspection gates for ourselves and baggage (of which we had none) before entering a secure concourse, and the last, naturally, was obtaining our boarding pass at gate 14 after showing our valid ticket. Like all passenger tickets world-wide, it was a multi-page NCR  checkbook-shaped document showing vital information such as the ticket holder's name, carrier, airports of origination and destination, date, time, flight#, seller, class, various codes that have meaning only to a few people who can decipher them, and, most importantly, the price. I saw the dominance of the English language as every bit of the fine print was in both Chinese and English.  We were soon taking three seats in row 4 aboard an Airbus  320-214  for our two-hour hop to Xi'an.

                     

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